Cinematic journeys in food, wine, and reverie.

El Celler de Can Roca

A long tasting lunch in Girona, Catalonia.

CityGirona, Catalonia
VisitedNov 2022
MenuTasting menu: snacks, then fifteen courses
Michelin
Michelin starMichelin starMichelin star
ChefsJoan, Josep and Jordi Roca
Opened1986
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The entrance to El Celler de Can Roca at night.
The entrance to El Celler de Can Roca at night.

El Celler de Can Roca is the Girona restaurant of the three Roca brothers: Joan in the kitchen, Josep with the wine and Jordi with the desserts. It opened in 1986 beside their parents' bar and has stood in its current building on Carrer de Can Sunyer since 2007.

I went for lunch on Thursday, 24 November 2022. The menu card began with a run of snacks, each marked with the year it first appeared on their menu, then went through fifteen courses, from a fresh autumn salad to bread with chocolate, with wines from the sommelier’s list poured alongside.

  • Michelin starMichelin starMichelin starMichelin: 3 stars (third star awarded 2009)
  • The 50: Best of the Best: No. 1 in 2013 and 2015, no longer in the annual ranking
  • Each snack on the menu card is marked with the year it first appeared on the menu.
The table set with river stones and a stone slab.
The table set with river stones and a stone slab.
BENVINGUTS
BENVINGUTS
Some accolades.
Some accolades.
Bruna cow's fresh milk cream from Formatgeria la Xiquella with veal (2021)
Bruna cow's fresh milk cream from Formatgeria la Xiquella with veal (2021)
Boletus sandwich.
Boletus sandwich.
Boletus brioche (2009)
Boletus brioche (2009)
Poularde cannelloni (2001) and code brandade (1997), on the board of the restaurant’s years.
Poularde cannelloni (2001) and code brandade (1997), on the board of the restaurant’s years.
Charcoal grilled chestnut carpet, citreous, mushrooms and smoked eel (2015)
Charcoal grilled chestnut carpet, citreous, mushrooms and smoked eel (2015)
Vegetable surf and turf. Seaweeds, herbs and flowers; and beside it a small tartlet with fried mushroom (the card lists a boletus tartalette, 1995).
Vegetable surf and turf. Seaweeds, herbs and flowers; and beside it a small tartlet with fried mushroom (the card lists a boletus tartalette, 1995).
Five snacks along the board.
Five snacks along the board.
Pumpkin merengue, Caesar's mushroom and tangerine (2022)
Pumpkin merengue, Caesar's mushroom and tangerine (2022)
A whole prawn: marinated with rice vinegar, head juice, crispy prawn legs, seaweed velouté (2012). Olivada (2018). Spring pickles with walnut “romesco” sauce (2018).
A whole prawn: marinated with rice vinegar, head juice, crispy prawn legs, seaweed velouté (2012). Olivada (2018). Spring pickles with walnut “romesco” sauce (2018).
Olivada: aloreña, cordobesa, cornicabra, Kalamata and Verdial with piparra (2018)
Olivada: aloreña, cordobesa, cornicabra, Kalamata and Verdial with piparra (2018)
Spring pickles with walnut "romesco" sauce (2018) / Yucca flower (2013)
Spring pickles with walnut "romesco" sauce (2018) / Yucca flower (2013)
A bowl of green petals in a pale cream.
A bowl of green petals in a pale cream.
A pile of shaved white, candied citrus and a dark sliver, with green powder.
A pile of shaved white, candied citrus and a dark sliver, with green powder.
El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, photo 18
González Byass Palo Cortado 1986, made for El Celler de Can Roca.
González Byass Palo Cortado 1986, made for El Celler de Can Roca.
Palo cortado.
Palo cortado.
Oyster with palo cortado, game sauce and truffle (2012). Foie nougat, hazelnuts and cocoa (2005)
Oyster with palo cortado, game sauce and truffle (2012). Foie nougat, hazelnuts and cocoa (2005)
Fresh autumn salad. Pomegranate gazpacho, pumpkin with pickled pink grapefruit, sweet potato with walnut oil, raw chestnut with chestnut puree, swede and nasturtium leaves, Jerusalem artichoke petals and ginger
Fresh autumn salad. Pomegranate gazpacho, pumpkin with pickled pink grapefruit, sweet potato with walnut oil, raw chestnut with chestnut puree, swede and nasturtium leaves, Jerusalem artichoke petals and ginger
Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Rosado 2012.
Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Rosado 2012.
Lettuce with nettle sauce and "ajoblanco" of macadamia nuts. Trocadero lettuce purée, romaine lettuce granite, celtuce confit, swede confit, pickled cucumber
Lettuce with nettle sauce and "ajoblanco" of macadamia nuts. Trocadero lettuce purée, romaine lettuce granite, celtuce confit, swede confit, pickled cucumber
Fig, pistachio and fig leaf soup. Pickled fig seeds and mustard, verjuice jelly, pickled onion, courgette purée, persimmon with anise and fig skin terrine
Fig, pistachio and fig leaf soup. Pickled fig seeds and mustard, verjuice jelly, pickled onion, courgette purée, persimmon with anise and fig skin terrine
Cauliflower with lychee. Laminated cauliflower, cauliflower puree with ragweed seeds, bergamot and verjuice, cauliflower puree with butter, fried cauliflower puree, cauliflower couscous, fried broccoli flower, lychee sauce and fermented grape
Cauliflower with lychee. Laminated cauliflower, cauliflower puree with ragweed seeds, bergamot and verjuice, cauliflower puree with butter, fried cauliflower puree, cauliflower couscous, fried broccoli flower, lychee sauce and fermented grape
Celeriac and pear. Smoked celeriac purée, caramelized cream, roasted celeriac broth, crunchy celeriac sprouts, tarragon, coffee, pickled celery, pickled rhubarb, candied anise, Sherry vinegar
Celeriac and pear. Smoked celeriac purée, caramelized cream, roasted celeriac broth, crunchy celeriac sprouts, tarragon, coffee, pickled celery, pickled rhubarb, candied anise, Sherry vinegar
Fried, candied and charcoal-grilled bloody milk cap mushroom. With pine nuts, cream of pine nuts and sprouts of pine nuts, piquillo pepper, pine vinegar, pine honey and paprika from La Vera oil
Fried, candied and charcoal-grilled bloody milk cap mushroom. With pine nuts, cream of pine nuts and sprouts of pine nuts, piquillo pepper, pine vinegar, pine honey and paprika from La Vera oil
Charcoal-grilled aubergine. Lacquered with miso, aubergine caviar, pickled aubergine, smoked yogurt, bulgur with sesame and cardamom béchamel
Charcoal-grilled aubergine. Lacquered with miso, aubergine caviar, pickled aubergine, smoked yogurt, bulgur with sesame and cardamom béchamel
Pickled sea urchin. Potato and "tari" purée, pickled eggplant seeds, charcoal-grilled sweet potato, bottarga, Ibarra chilli pepper seeds, coriander purée, saffron "allioli", red seaweed, sea grape seaweed, vinegar jelly, lemon zest, nasturtium flowers
Pickled sea urchin. Potato and "tari" purée, pickled eggplant seeds, charcoal-grilled sweet potato, bottarga, Ibarra chilli pepper seeds, coriander purée, saffron "allioli", red seaweed, sea grape seaweed, vinegar jelly, lemon zest, nasturtium flowers
Langoustine with sagebrush, vanilla oil and toasted butter
Langoustine with sagebrush, vanilla oil and toasted butter
Fish of the day "suquet". Hazelnut foam, semi-dried tomato with capers and black olives, grilled lemon purée with anise liqueur reduction, rosemary, mint and fennel oil and fried bread with freeze-dried garum
Fish of the day "suquet". Hazelnut foam, semi-dried tomato with capers and black olives, grilled lemon purée with anise liqueur reduction, rosemary, mint and fennel oil and fried bread with freeze-dried garum
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5º, Ribera del Duero.
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5º, Ribera del Duero.
"Ramats de foc" lamb. With smoked sheep’s cottage cheese, lemon verbena, artemisia, rue, thyme, rosemary, sempervivum, wild blackberry, fennel flower, verdial olive, ratafia and walnut oil
"Ramats de foc" lamb. With smoked sheep’s cottage cheese, lemon verbena, artemisia, rue, thyme, rosemary, sempervivum, wild blackberry, fennel flower, verdial olive, ratafia and walnut oil
El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, photo 35
Poularde Brioche, with truffle and fresh herbs sauce
Poularde Brioche, with truffle and fresh herbs sauce
El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, photo 37
Poularde Brioche, with truffle and fresh herbs sauce
Poularde Brioche, with truffle and fresh herbs sauce
It rains in the pine forest. Pine honey with pine nuts, thyme and oregano. Lemon and rosemary granita and distilled earth.
It rains in the pine forest. Pine honey with pine nuts, thyme and oregano. Lemon and rosemary granita and distilled earth.
"distilled earth"
"distilled earth"
Autumn colourology. Carrot cake, pumpkin purée, mandarin albedo, honey béarnaise, sweet potato and vanilla purée, pumpkin jelly, mandarin, carrot and turmeric compote, egg yolk ice cream with mandarin liqueur, crispy sweet potato
Autumn colourology. Carrot cake, pumpkin purée, mandarin albedo, honey béarnaise, sweet potato and vanilla purée, pumpkin jelly, mandarin, carrot and turmeric compote, egg yolk ice cream with mandarin liqueur, crispy sweet potato
Bread with chocolate, oil and salt. Hacienda Victoria chocolate mousse, cocoa nib ice cream, oil and bread honey, maldon salt, crispy chocolate
Bread with chocolate, oil and salt. Hacienda Victoria chocolate mousse, cocoa nib ice cream, oil and bread honey, maldon salt, crispy chocolate
Frozen lollipops on a stone, after the desserts.
Frozen lollipops on a stone, after the desserts.
Flor de Pingus.
Flor de Pingus.
Sweets on a green glass plate: chocolates, a biscuit sandwich and copper-coloured pieces.
Sweets on a green glass plate: chocolates, a biscuit sandwich and copper-coloured pieces.
Sweets
Sweets
El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, photo 47

Carrer de Can Sunyer, 48, 17007 Girona